The Riviera Maya is a stretch of near perfect Caribbean coast in the Yucatan that extends 84 miles (130km) from Cancun to Tulum along Mexico’s coastal Highway 307. It is, at points, one of the most authentic and charming beach destinations anywhere, however, many come here and stay trapped in 500 or even 2,000+ room, all inclusive Americanized resorts, rarely knowing what is beyond the property walls. Many do not realize that there are dozens of excellent small hotels on the Riviera Maya. There is no need to stay in a massive all-inclusive where you must to eat at set times or fight the crowd in the buffet line for mediocre food. Several of the top restaurants in Mexico are here and your plastic resort bracelet will do you no good, not to mention the Yucatan is home to some of the best street food on the planet. The Riviera Maya, especially in small towns like Tulum or Playa del Carmen, is one of my favorite places to get away and kick back, to eat shrimp tacos and drink mescal without a care in the world, but I could never do that at a huge resort. Here are my favorite small hotels on the Riviera Maya:
North of Playa del Carmen
Le Rêve Hotel & Spa: Hidden away just north of Playa del Carmen, on quiet, white sand Xcalacoco beach, this sleek 25 suite, adults only resort, is decorated in colorful blue tiles and thatched beach umbrellas. Their infinity pool is one of the best in the entire Riviera Maya, their restaurant serves excellent contemporary Mexican dishes, and their little beach bar is about as laid back as any beach bar could be. If you need to rent out an entire hotel for a wedding, this would be the place. $$$
Maroma Resort & Spa: The 65-room Orient Express managed hotel on it’s own private beach, one of if not the nicest beach in the entire Riviera Maya, combines the amenities (pools, a spa) of the larger resorts down the road with quiet sophistication. There’s a tequila and ceviche bar, hand painted tiles everywhere, and superb service. It’s pricey, but you get what you pay for. $$$$$
Playa del Carmen
Hotel Deseo: The Deseo has a sort of South Beach meets Mexico minimalist style that attracts Playa’s cool crowd to their 15 rooms and always lively rooftop lounge. It’s operated by Mexico City based Habita group, which runs the Hotel Americano in NYC, and previously the Hotel Basico that was down the street (and now under renovation). $$
The El Taj: This Balinese themed boutique condo-hotel sits in prime Playa beachfront, right in the heart of town. There are palapa roofs on the top floor and hand carved wood is everywhere. Their restaurant/beach club and beach service is tops in Playa. If you need a superb kitchen and easy access to markets come here. Owned by a New Yorker who built a deli across the street because he missed them. Several sister properties off the beach are also a great value. $$$$
La Reina Roja: It’s not on the beach, but if you want a hotel that’s cool, edgy, and comfortable without spending a lot of money La Reina Roja is a decent option. Covered in red neon lights and grounded by an S&M themed bar, it has individually themed rooms and a green rooftop with a pool and bar. It is as risqué as they come without being too over the top. OK, so maybe it is a little over the top. $$
Tulum
Casa de las Olas: Hidden away at the very end of Tulum’s beach road, just before the Si’an Kaan Biosphere Reserve, is this five room villa that’s almost 100% sustainable without sacrificing comfort. Solar powered and on one of the quietest, most beautiful stretches of Tulum’s idyllic beach, the hotel and owner James Greenfield – an authority on eating local – are host to 5-day OH! Food Workshops twice a year that are run in conjunction with the famed Hartwood restaurant down the street. $$$
Coqui Coqui: With just a few rooms, Coqui Coqui, owned by a perfume manufacture of the same name is part of a chain of four luxury boutique hotels in remote destinations around the Yucatan peninsula. $$$$
Amansala Resort: A renowned yoga resort, the home of Bikini Bootcamp and various Detox programs, eco chic Amansala is the most health conscious hotel in Tulum. The 24 rooms have a Balinese/Mayan feel. There’s yoga all day long plus healthy food and juice options to pair with your stay. $$$
Nueva Vida de Ramiro: A small complex of 30 stilted mostly ocean front bungalows with thatched roofs; this is home to some of Tulum’s most reasonably priced accommodations. $$$
Papaya Playa Project: The world’s first pop up hotel was so popular that it became permanent. Tulum’s hipster headquarters with a variety of rooms from hostel dorms to private suites. $$
Writer and photographer Nicholas Gill is the editor/publisher of New World Review. He lives in Lima, Peru and Brooklyn, New York. His work has appeared in publications such as the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, CondeNast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, Afar, and Penthouse. Visit his personal website (nicholas-gill.com) for more information.
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